RSS - PostsRead about how to find macro subjects.
You first 30 macro subjects are rather intimidating.
But first!
Stop and take a couple of breaths. Relax. Think, then act.
Mark the subject so that you can find it again if you drift away a bit. I’ll stick my Lembeh stick into the sandy bottom in good visibility or drop a lit torch about half a meter (or less) away in bad visibility. That way if I look down at my camera to fix a problem or have a hand conversation with somebody, I can go back to where the subject is.
Some things to ask about the subject…
Is it shy? Some subjects like gobies retreat into their home (or just leave the area) when you approach. They’re afraid that you’re going to eat them. With these animals, you have to go slow and steady when you move around them.
Does it hate white light? Shrimp and crabs are notorious for not liking white light. It hurts their eyes. With these creatures, you have to either use a red focus light or no focus light. White lights are straight out. This also means that it’s hard to get photos of them without a strobe.
What are its key features? Every animal has a set of features that really define what they are.
- Shrimp and crabs: eyes, claws.
- Nudibranchs: rhinophores, gills, eggs.
- Seahorses and pipefish: mouth, eyes, tiny fins, and sometimes a pregnant belly.
- Gobies and other small fish: eyes, face fringes, dorsal fin.
Which direction is the animal facing and moving? Most of the best shots are from the front of the creature. This isn’t always the deal, but understanding where the “face” is can be a good start at how you approach the photo shoot.
Some questions about where you’re at…
Is there another subject nearby? Sometimes, this happens: there is a better subject nearby. Or sometimes your subject is in a bad location to shoot (usually facing down or in a crack that you can’t stick a lens and strobes in) but there is another one of the same close by that is in a location where you can shoot.
Where is the current coming from? Ideally, you want to take pictures while you’re facing into the current to minimize sand in the shot. Sand is backscatter and that’s bad, mkay? Sadly, though, most subjects when you find them will be facing into the current, and this complicates life. So you have to stop and think about where you and your camera can be located in order to minimize the dirt in your shot.
Is the bottom safe to you and itself? Will you break off coral if you take this shot? Will you be rolling around on fire coral? Is there a scorpionfish sitting in the marl that will stick you with venom? More about safety here.
Approach the Subject
Add or remove your diopter. Match your diopter to the size of the subject. I use a flip holder, so it’s relatively trivial to flip in and out on shots. The one downsize is that I then have to change exposure settings, especially aperture, because the depth of field and amount of visible light change. Some people screw their diopters in and out, and if you’re one of those people, be sure to mark your subject before you do.
Adjust your strobes. If there isn’t enough room for you strobes on the bottom, then you’ll have to move them to the top of the lens like Mickey Mouse ears. Or use a completely different style. If you keep your strobes off while you hunt, turn them on now.
Get a focus lock. Lock your focus on the sand or coral nearby. Or use the focus gear on your housing to move the focus to the desired length away from the lens front. This will help you find the subject better. I’ll also make a test shot to wake up my camera and strobes if they went into sleep mode.
Go slow. Fast means making dust in the water and scaring the subject. Try to contain your excitement.
Shoot away!!
See You Underwater!!
–Mike